The wines cover a range of regions and grapes, representing the diversity on offer in Chile today. Since my previous report on the category (“Learning Curve,” May 31, 2014), I have reviewed nearly 350 Chilean wines, one-fifth of them receiving outstanding scores of 90 points or higher. I am personally getting excellent results out of these varieties in Colchagua Valley.”
“These varieties are doing well not only in Maule and Itata but in warmer valleys in the north that are yielding outstanding quality and freshness. “From what I see, the best results are being achieved by the Mediterranean varieties like Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and, in less dimension, the País grape,” Montes says. Industry leader Aurelio Montes recognizes a variety of new grapes and wines on the horizon that could help define-or redefine-Chile’s future. Winemakers hired by big companies are making their own wines on the side, grapegrowers are starting to keep part of their production to make wine, and there are also more entrepreneurs and winemakers wanting to make wine.” “This is finally changing, and I think this will be one of the most interesting developments in years to come. “Although Chile is among the biggest wine producers in the world, and actually one of the biggest New World exporters, there are very few wineries,” Bruchfeld adds. “I always have the feeling that Chile is in a constant catch-up process amongst ourselves, and I find that fascinating,” says Sven Bruchfeld of Viña Polkura.
But there are constraints: an industry that is overwhelmingly dominated by a handful of big players, a risk-averse and export-driven wine economy, and a small domestic market for top-quality bottlings. From the desertlike climes of the north (Limarí and Elquí) to the cooler and wetter regions of the south (Itata and Bío Bío), Chilean vintners are pushing the boundaries. Chile boasts a range of terroirs that its talented winemakers have just begun to explore. Yet many Chilean vintners are restless and looking to deliver something more-a chance at star status or a distinctive niche-which they say has eluded them so far. Its grapes are grown in a region near the Pacific shore that barely registered a generation ago yet has taken the lead with the Burgundian varietals Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
A white wine such as Lapostolle’s Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Cuvée Alexandre Atalayas Vineyard 2012 (91 points, $24), which offers lusciously spiced tropical and white fruit flavors, is equally impressive.
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